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Jet Powermatic 1 Ring Tool 709182" by Jet
Product DetailsManufacturer: Jet Model: 709182 Product features: - 1" 25mm Ring tool
- Dual bevel ring to shear wood as it cuts
- Holds an edge 6x longer than your standard carbon steel chisel
- M2 High speed steel
- Beech wood handle
Description of Jet Powermatic 1 Ring Tool 709182"This Jet Powermatic 1? ring tool chisel was designed to create a perfect finish when hollowing the end grain on a bowl. It has a dual bevel ring to shear the wood as it cuts. Hot forged, ground and fitted by hand, it will hold an edge six times longer than regular carbon steel chisels. Since being introduced in 1992, these chisels have become a favorite of wood turners worldwide. They are constructed using M2 High Speed Steel and tempered to Rockwell hardness 62/64 for razor-sharp cutting and demanding turning conditions and feature ergonomically designed Beech handles that are fitted with heavy-duty solid brass ferrules.
Tools and Hardware Reviews of Jet Powermatic 1 Ring Tool 709182"Customer Review: Worth the Money Summary: 4 Stars
I can't give this tool five stars, but it deserves four. It's sturdily built, long & strong as a hollowing tool should be, and the ring is welded in place instead of riveted as most manufacturers do. The weld is blended well with the shank, looking nearly seamless.
Do NOT expect to use this tool straight out of the package. If you do, you'll despise it and it'll end up rusting in a corner. Despite the fact that it was made in Sheffield, it apparently wasn't given a classic "Sheffield sharpening"; it's shipped with only the initial "pre-hardening" machined edge, and it REQUIRES sharpening before it'll do anything but bludgeon your workpiece to death - it's only about as sharp as a playing card as shipped.
So - sharpen, as you really should do with any new tool before it's used the first time anyway. It'd have been NICE for them to grind it sharp at the factory, but this is something you need to be able to do anyway.
The bevels are ground to 25 degrees. Many will immediately start thinking of power grinding with a mounted point to speed up the job, but that approach will make sure you hate the tool; no cutting tool should ever be ground parallel to the edge, with any grit stone (including diamonds). You NEED to abrade the bevel PERPENDICULAR to the edge, so your one good way to sharpen this tool will be to wrap sandpaper (aluminum oxide or silicon carbide) around either a dowel or your finger (my fingers worked fine, since they fit inside the tool well) and use it to scrub the far end of the ring. Sand ONLY on the INSIDE of the tool, never on the outside, and sand ONLY the part of the ring diametrically opposite the handle - that's the only part of the ring that should ever get used to cut wood.
To use the tool, don't try to use it like a gouge, with the ring horizontal. Instead, use it like a skew, wih the ring vertical... or very nearly vertical. For most of us, with the spindle turning clockwise as seen from behind the headstock, the tool will be slightly (only a few degrees) twisted clockwise in use so the tip is skewed slightly. All the cutting will happen just below the centerline of the tip. The handle should always be very nearly level or slightly tipped below level at the [...] end.
Most of the time, you'll use the small (out-cannel) side of the ring; the bevel on that side tips the cutting edge toward you so you can ("skew") smooth the bottoms of bowls with the handle pointing nearly straight out toward the tailstock instead of swung far over toward the wall behind the lathe. To get into the center of a goblet, though, you'll need to use the large (in-cannel) side with the handle swung well toward your right armpit. Otherwise you simply cannot reach all the way in. You'll also use the out-cannel side to chase a depth hole down to enlarge it.
If you try using the tool with the ring held horizontal, you'll immediately get chattering and banging, and you may get a devastating catch. Remember, that ring doesn't have very much mass, so there's not enough metal there to give you the rigidity for that sort of cut.
If you try using the side of the ring, you might have some success... but you'd better have plenty of wrist strength and fine twisting control; it's a little like using a side hollower, but with a huge cutting edge like a roughing gouge, so it'll grab your tool in a heartbeat and take it right out of your hands. Really - USE the tool with the ring VERTICAL. It works well that way, and there's no good reason to do it the other way.
It'd be nice if the tool came with replaceable tips like the Termite, no doubt about that, since then you wouldn't have to replace the whole tool, shank, handle & all, when it's worn & resharpened beyond the point of sensibility. Still, this whole tool costs only a little more than one replacement tip for the Termite.
Wood Chisels
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